Chapter 93: One Trusted Attendant
The seamstress arrived with two assistants, four trunks, and the calm authority of a woman accustomed to telling duchesses they were wrong about sleeves.
Serali, who had faced council interrogations, iron bindings, Lyehiran soldiers, and Allandra’s mouth, took one look at the procession entering her sitting room and considered retreating through the servants’ passage.
Mara stood beside the hearth with her hands folded.
She was smiling.
Not openly. Not enough to be accused.
Enough.
Serali looked at her. “You said a seamstress.”
“I did.”
“You did not say an invading force.”
“The assistants carry materials.”
“They have trunks.”
“Yes.”
“One has a stool.”
“For hems.”
“One has pins.”
“For fitting.”
“One has a face like she knows how to use them.”
“For accuracy.”
Serali narrowed her eyes. “You are enjoying this.”
“Moderately.”
“Liar.”
Mara’s smile deepened by a treasonous fraction.
The seamstress herself swept into the room last, a tall Sun Fae woman with silver-threaded auburn hair, warm brown skin, and a measuring tape draped around her neck like ceremonial authority. She wore a charcoal gown cut so perfectly Serali suspected it could wound someone of lesser confidence. A pair of spectacles hung from a chain at her bodice. Her eyes moved over the room once, over Serali twice, and over Mara with immediate professional recognition.
“Mistress Mara,” she said.
“Mistress Callenne.”
Serali looked between them. “You know each other.”
“Of course,” Mara said.
“Why of course?”
Callenne inclined her head. “I have dressed half the residence wing in one emergency or another.”
“That is not reassuring.”
“It is not meant to be, my lady. It is meant to be accurate.”
Serali paused.
She looked at Mara. “I like her less than I expected.”
Mara’s mouth twitched.
Callenne’s expression did not change, though something in her eyes sharpened with amusement. “Royal Mage, if you are amenable, I would like to begin with measurements. After that we will discuss use, cut, fabrics, color range, embroidery, closures, underlayers, and required accessories.”
“No,” Serali said.
Callenne glanced at Mara.
Mara said, “She means yes.”
“I do not.”
“You mean no emotionally,” Mara said. “Practically, you mean yes.”
Serali stared at her. “That is a horrifying sentence.”
“Nevertheless.”
Callenne removed her spectacles from their chain and set them on her nose. “I am told the commission is for an initial court wardrobe: six gowns, two additional undergowns suitable for layering, winter undergarments, day gloves, formal gloves, and any structural garments required.”
Serali went very still.
Mara closed her eyes.
“Structural garments,” Serali repeated.
Callenne looked up. “Yes.”
“I had tea.”
“That is good?”
“It means I cannot leave through the servants’ passage without damaging my own argument.”
Callenne’s pen paused for half a heartbeat, then continued.
Serali pointed at the notebook. “Do not write that down.”
“I wrote: practical objections anticipated.”
“I dislike you again.”
“Many clients do at this stage.”
The assistants unpacked with terrifying efficiency. Fabric books spread across the table. Folded muslin appeared. Chalk. Pins. A small wooden box full of buttons. A tray of lace so delicate Serali distrusted it on sight.
Callenne gestured toward the standing screen near the hearth. “If you would remove your outer gown, we can begin.”
Serali looked at the screen.
Then at Callenne.
Then at Mara.
“No.”
Mara folded her hands. “Serali.”
“I have changed my mind. Five gowns is plenty.”
“One hem has surrendered.”
Stolen from its rightful author, this tale is not meant to be on Amazon; report any sightings.
“It can be buried with honor.”
“You attend council tomorrow.”
“I can attend in mourning for the hem.”
Callenne made a note.
Serali looked at her sharply.
“I wrote that the gray gown requires replacement,” Callenne said.
Serali narrowed her eyes.
“And that you prefer humor under stress.”
“I do not prefer it. It happens to me.”
“Noted.”
“Do not note that either.”
Callenne’s pen moved.
Mara’s shoulders shook once.
Serali closed her eyes.
This, she thought, was how courts killed people. Not with knives. With competent women and fabric books.
She went behind the screen.
The gown she wore was dark gray, one of the five, and Mara had selected it because “plain lines are easiest to remove.” Serali had thought that ominous at the time.
She had been correct.
Mara joined her behind the screen without asking, which was acceptable only because Mara had seen every practical version of Serali’s body already: injured, bandaged, shaking with fever, unable to button sleeves, furious at baths.
This was not that.
This was undressing for assessment rather than survival, and somehow worse.
“I can do it,” Serali muttered.
“I know.”
Mara only helped with the back fastenings, then stepped away.
The gown slid from Serali’s shoulders.
Serali stood in her shift and stockings, arms folded, feeling ridiculous and exposed despite the screen.
No iron.
No wounds reopened.
No hands grabbing.
Only a seamstress.
Only clothing.
Only the awful fact that her body was about to become a list of dimensions.
“Ready?” Callenne asked from the other side.
“No.”
Mara said, “Yes.”
Serali glared at her.
Mara looked serene.
Callenne came around the screen with the measuring tape in hand and paused exactly one step away.
“May I?”
The question was so practical, so automatic, that Serali almost missed the kindness of it.
Almost.
She lowered her arms. “Yes.”
Callenne moved with swift, impersonal care. Around shoulders. Across back. Bust. Underbust. Waist. Hip. Arm length. Wrist. Neck to waist. Waist to floor.
At Serali’s shoulders, where the neckline of her shift dipped just enough, Callenne’s gaze paused.
Not long.
Not staring.
Just long enough to register the faint, uneven lines that crossed the upper curve of Serali’s back—old scars, pale against her skin, visible where fabric did not quite cover.
Serali felt it.
The noticing.
Her spine went rigid.
Callenne did not comment. She did not reach to touch them. She did not ask.
She simply adjusted the angle of the measuring tape, as if accounting for structure rather than history, and continued.
Around the injured wrist, she slowed.
Serali noticed that too.
Callenne did not touch the scarred skin twice. She did not ask what had happened. She simply measured above it, then below, and said, “Cuffs should not bind here.”
“No,” Serali said.
“Fitted, then. Structured enough not to slide. Soft lining.”
Serali looked at her.
Callenne made the note as if it were ordinary.
Perhaps it was. To her.
The measuring continued. Mara answered the easy questions: expected council schedule, climate, laundering, which current gowns had failed and why. Serali answered the harder ones after being given time to glare at the options.
No trailing sleeves.
No helpless lacing at the back.
No tight cuffs.
No birds.
No vines.
Small stars were acceptable if scattered, not arranged.
“Arranged how?” Callenne asked.
“Like someone meant something by it.”
Callenne nodded as if that were a perfectly normal instruction. “Scattered stars. No symbolic constellations.”
Serali looked at Mara.
Mara looked back.
Neither of them laughed.
The first half hour was almost tolerable.
Then Callenne asked, “How many attendants will be dressing you for formal events?”
The room tilted.
Not visibly.
Not to anyone else, perhaps.
But Serali felt it: the trunks too many, the fabric too soft, the air full of choices she had not known existed and futures she had not agreed to. Staff. Jewelry. Formal underlayers. People reading her sleeves. People helping her become visible.
Hands.
Always hands.
Making her into whatever the room required.
She took one step back.
Mara’s voice came quiet. “Serali.”
“I don’t need staff.”
“No one is assigning them today.”
“I don’t need them.”
“I know.”
“No, you don’t.”
The words came sharper than intended.
Mara went still.
Callenne’s assistants lowered their eyes, suddenly very busy being invisible.
Serali hated that too.
She had not meant to say it. She had not had a staff, not truly. Not in the way Allandra had staff. Not in the way Everly had nurses and footmen and people who smiled when she entered rooms.
But in Lyehira, there had been women who brought her gowns when Rania wished to parade the king’s mistake before visiting bloodlines. Women who scrubbed her hair until her scalp burned because someone had decided she smelled of kitchens. Girls who laced her too tightly because Rania’s eyes were on them. Servants who pitied her, resented her, feared being kind to her, or hated her for being above them in blood and below them in treatment.
Hands.
Always hands.
Serali wrapped her arms around herself.
“I don’t need them,” she said again.
Mara crossed the room slowly and stopped well outside reach.
“No,” she said. “You do not need them today.”
Callenne closed her notebook.
Not loudly.
Not with finality.
Just closed it.
“My lady,” she said, “I can design every gown to be managed by one attendant, or by yourself if necessary, except perhaps the most formal piece. Even that can be arranged with practice.”
Serali looked at her.
Callenne’s expression remained professional. Steady. No pity. No flinch.
“I do not require a large dressing staff to make good clothing,” she continued. “I require information.”
Serali swallowed.
“That,” she said after a moment, “sounds like something Verya would say.”
Callenne’s mouth curved faintly. “Lady Verya is an excellent client.”
“Of course she is.”
“She has strong opinions about cuffs.”
Despite herself, Serali almost laughed.
Mara saw it.
Good.
Annoying.
But good.
Callenne reopened the notebook. “Shall I write: garments to be manageable by one trusted attendant whenever possible?”
Serali’s throat felt tight.
Trusted attendant.
Mara stood there, hands folded, expression calm, as if she had not just been named by implication in the center of Serali’s panic.
“Yes,” Serali said.
Callenne wrote it down.
The scratch of pen on paper sounded, absurdly, like safety being made bureaucratic.
Mara’s face did something small and warm.
Serali looked away before it undid her.
After that, the appointment became less like invasion and more like negotiation.
Callenne asked fewer questions at once. Mara answered some. Serali answered others.
The final list was tolerable only because Callenne wrote quickly enough that Serali did not have to look at it for long.
Necklines: moderate.
Sleeves: fitted for work, no trailing fabric, soft-lined cuffs.
Embroidery: small silver stars, subtle dark thread, no birds, no vines.
Closures: front or side, manageable, no trapped-back nonsense.
Colors: smoke blue, plum, charcoal, deep teal, one silver-gray, and one black formal gown only if Verya approved, which was apparently a sentence people said now.
Undergarments: accepted under protest.
Jewelry: deferred under extreme protest, which Callenne recorded as “minimal, selected later.”
Callenne glanced at the fabric books, then selected a smoke-blue swatch and set it aside. “The first two gowns can be ready within ten days. The rest will follow in stages. Undergarments sooner. I will send sketches and a written summary for approval.”
“Approval by whom?” Serali asked.
Callenne looked at her. “You.”
Serali blinked.
“It is your wardrobe.”
The words should not have struck.
They did.
Serali looked at Mara.
Mara said nothing.
Wise woman.
Callenne snapped her notebook closed. “Mistress Mara may send amendments after you review the sketches.”
“May she?”
“If you instruct her to.”
Serali disliked how much that helped.
The assistants packed the trunks with the same frightening efficiency they had used to open them. Fabric books vanished. Pins disappeared. The stool retreated. The lace, blessedly, was removed from sight.
Mara saw Callenne to the door.
Serali retreated behind the screen to put her gray gown back on. By the time she emerged, the room looked almost normal again.
Almost.
Only one swatch remained on the table.
Smoke blue, soft as winter dusk.
Serali picked it up.
Mara returned and found her holding it.
“I hate all of this,” Serali said.
“Yes.”
“I hate that you enjoyed it.”
“Yes.”
“I hate that it is practical.”
“Yes.”
“I hate that the seamstress was good.”
“She is excellent.”
“I hate that too.”
Mara crossed to the table and began gathering the abandoned thread cards. “Would you like me to cancel the jewelry list?”
Serali looked at her sharply.
Mara’s face was innocent.
Still too innocent.
“You are baiting me.”
“A little.”
“No.”
“No, do not cancel it?”
“No, I will not answer.”
Mara smiled.
Serali looked down at the swatch again.
Soft. Expensive. Hers, apparently, if she approved it.
Another thing she could lose.
Another thing chosen before loss.
She set it on the table.
Mara’s expression softened.
Good woman.
Terrible woman.
Serali sat in the hearth chair, the good one, the warm one, the treacherous one, and looked at the battlefield of thread and paper.
Court had not won.
Not entirely.
But it had acquired measurements.
